Dahlias et rondelles plates (Dahlias and flat rings)

Title: 
Dahlias et rondelles plates (Dahlias and flat rings)

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Object Name: 
Necklace
Title: 
Dahlias et rondelles plates (Dahlias and flat rings)
Accession Number: 
2013.3.6
Dimensions: 
Overall H: 2 cm, Diam (max): 18 cm
Location: 
Not on Display
Date: 
designed 1927
Credit Line: 
Purchased in part with funds from Elaine and Stanford Steppa
Web Description: 
Composed of 46 acid-etched colorless dahlia beads and 23 frosted and polished amber flat beads, this necklace was designed by René Lalique to be worn by the era’s New Woman. Compared with his earlier Art Nouveau jewels, which were one-of-a-kind objects for an elite clientele, such necklaces were designed to be mass-produced for middle-class customers. Lalique’s new designs reflected the women of the 1920s, who not only fought for the right to vote but also began to take part in traditionally male activities, such as driving, smoking, and drinking. Art Deco fashion reflected these changing roles by adopting bold and bright patterns, dropped waists, and higher hemlines worn over an uncorseted body. As a master jeweler and glassmaker, Lalique began experiments with glass as early as 1891 and continued to dazzle with new styles and new techniques for almost 50 years. Just as his jewelry—displayed at the 1900 Exposition Universelle in Paris— was seen as the epitome of Art Nouveau fashion, his designs were found in every corner of the 1925 Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes, also in Paris, which signaled the beginning of the Art Deco period. Lalique elevated pressed and molded glassware to a fine art form through his unique designs and creative mass production techniques. In 1912, the Norwegian critic and fine arts commissioner J. Nilsen Laurvik observed that Lalique’s “accomplished craftsmanship has enabled him to utilize the services of the machine without in the least affecting the artistic quality of his productions. In his hands it is no longer mechanically meaningless; it has become a tool of the artist wherewith he may communicate his ideas to a greater number than was ever possible to the craftsman of old.”* Unsigned. Published: Kelley Elliott, Elizabeth Everton, and Tina Oldknow, René Lalique: Enchanted by Glass, Corning: The Corning Museum of Glass in association with Yale University Press, 2014, pp. 82–83; and Félix Marcilhac, René Lalique, 1860– 1945, maître-verrier. Analyse et catalogue raisonné de l’oeuvre de verre, Paris: Editions de l’Amateur, 2011, p. 560. For more information about Lalique glass, see Nicholas M. Dawes, Lalique Glass, New York: Crown Publishers Inc., 1986. * J. Nilsen Laurvik, René Lalique, New York: Haviland & Co., 1912, p. 12.
Department: 
Provenance: 
Bonhams, Source
2013-04-24
Category: 
Material: 
Primary Description: 
Necklace, "Dahlias et rondelles plates (Dahlias and flat rings)". Colorless glass, amber or orange glass, elastic cord; press-molded, assembled. Colorless and acid-etched mold-pressed glass beads in the dahlia design (46), are interspersed with amber (or orange) frosted and polished mold-pressed glass beads (23), creating 23 repeating patterns of the Dahlia et rondelles plates design. The necklace is strung on a modern elastic cord.
(TRAVELING) Rene Lalique: Enchanted by Glass
Venue(s)
Chrysler Museum of Art 2017-09-14 through 2018-01-21
Lalique's fascination with glass as a jeweler and an industrialist is told in this traveling exhibition from the Corning Museum of Glass through the objects that he designed and made. Rene Lalique: Enchanted by Glass documents the stylistic and artistic changes that swept through France during its Third Republic. The exhibition displays glass objects from the end of the 19th century through the 1940s, including rare design drawings, jewelry, medallions, perfume bottles, automobile mascots, tableware, desk and smoking accessories, decorative vases, statuettes, and working molds and models. All objects are from the comprehensive collection of The Corning Museum of Glass. Curated by Kelley Elliott , curatorial assistant of modern glass, with the assistance of Tina Oldknow, curator of modern glass, this traveling exhibition from The Corning Museum of Glass includes approximately 250 objects.
Rene Lalique: Enchanted by Glass
Venue(s)
Corning Museum of Glass 2014-05-16 through 2015-01-04
This major exhibition will bring together glass, jewelry, production molds, and design drawings by René Lalique (French, 1860─1945), dating from about 1893 to Lalique’s death in 1945. As a successful jeweler Lalique experimented with glass in his designs, which eventually led to a career in which he fully embraced the material. His aesthetic choices in his designs informed the styles of Art Nouveau and Art Deco in France, and the objects he created have become iconic reflections of these periods. Lalique also embraced industrial innovations, like mass production, allowing luxury glass to be placed in more and more households around the world.
 
The Corning Museum of Glass: Notable Acquisitions 2013 (2014) illustrated, p. 52 (#34);
Rene Lalique: Enchanted by Glass (2014) illustrated, p. 82-83 (no. 5); BIB# 139598
Notes: Corning Museum Adds Major Work to Glass, Library Collections (2014) illustrated, p. 386, #26; BIB# AI100158